Sunday, December 9, 2007

A Visit to London's Freemasons' Hall



I asked Kevin Christians to write a Guest Blog about his visit to this Mecca of Masonry - Here it is.
London’s Freemasons’ Hall


When my wife asked me to list all the things I wanted to see while visiting our daughter in London this November past, Freemasons’ Hall was near the top of the list. The Houses of Parliament, Big Ben, Westminster Abbey, Tower of London, et al, were, of course, the top sights on my list. But I was always willing to trade one of my (or her) top choices for the chance to tour Freemasons’ Hall.

After seeing the sights on our combined “to do” list, including Trafalgar Square, Piccadilly Circus, St. Paul’s Cathedral, and the H.M.S. Belfast, and having worn ourselves out already by finding a few sights not on our list, my wife and daughter decided by edict that we had not truly seen London until we had all gone shopping for shoes in several of London’s trendier neighborhoods. I saw my chance. I was going to Freemasons’ Hall.

Explaining to the both of them that we hadn’t explored the stores and shops around the Holborn tube stop, and since we had only two days left in England before flying home, they eagerly took the bait. The Tube (Underground) stop was mercifully close to our hotel; about a three minute walk. After “queuing up” (London speak for getting in line) for the tube, I informed the both of them that despite their well intentioned (and sadistic) plans for me to follow them to every shoe and boutique shop in London, I was instead going to tour Freemasons’ Hall. I explained that they both were to blame for my near crippled state, and we would all get along better in the days to come if we could just meet at a coffee house in three hours. Not wanting to cause a fuss in front of several hundred Londoners, they cheerfully agreed, and so we went our separate ways when we arrived at Holborn Station.

A short walk down the street facing the station, and I was at Great Queen Street. Turning right, I started walking, enjoying the sights, shops, and the smells coming from eating establishments. Keeping a constant vigil on address numbers, I noticed a sign on the opposite side of the street indicating “Connaught Rooms”. I remember reading about this place in a book titled “Laudable Pursuit” by the Knights of the North. It is where English Lodges in London have their Festive Boards, or just go for a bite to eat after Lodge.

I soon came across a store called Toye, Kenning, and Spencer Ltd. It advertised Masonic regalia, accessories, books, aprons, etc. Then a store with similar claims a few doors down. One of these, I don’t recall which, promoted itself as being a supplier to the Grand Lodge of England, Grand Lodge of Scotland, and…the Grand Lodge of Massachusetts.
Hmm. So I dodged traffic and went across the street to the front of Freemasons’ Hall. Quite a sight. But no foot traffic going in or out of its front doors. I observed three well dressed gentlemen along the side of the building on Great Queen St. They were standing in front of a set of double doors, and I figured that I would either be challenged or passed through. Not surprising me in the least, they passed me through and were most gracious. I was conducted to a desk occupied by other well dressed gentlemen. He asked that I “Please sign in suh” and got ready to make out my visitors’ pass, which must be displayed conspicuously at all times while in “The Hall”. The Hall, the home of the United Grand Lodge of England. I was finally there. When the gentlemen at the desk read my sign in information and saw that I was a Mason from Iowa, the formal smiles that he and the other well dressed gentlemen around the desk wore changed to wide, warm grins. I was offered “the grip”, given a visitors’ pass, and invited to tour the gift shop. The shop was full of both sensible items and touristy ones, but most were of high quality and would make dignified gifts. Keeping in mind that England trades on the pound, not the dollar or euro, I kept temptation on a leash and went on my long awaited tour.

The Lodge rooms I was permitted to view looked like Lodge rooms ought to look. Dignified. Solemn. Well taken care of. The wood paneling in the visitors’ room, the comfortable chairs and relaxed conversations, all contributed to an air of quiet sophistication and warmth. Once in the Library and Museum, time flew by all too quickly.

The Library is impressive. Desks with lights for reading and research are available, as are tables, assorted chairs, and a caretaker/librarian who is eager to assist you. He will also politely ask you not to take photos. A request not easy to comply with, but one you do anyway out of respect. The Museum is mind boggling. Aprons, collars, jewels, photographs, books, jewelry, more photos, and so much information the mind cannot absorb it all. Don’t forget to lose the term “York Rite”. Over there it is Capitular Masonry, Cryptic Masonry, or Knight Templar. And the corresponding aprons, jewels, and titles as well. I had never heard of Royal Arch “provincial” “district” or “grand rank”. Royal Ark Mariner, Order of the Secret Monitor, Rectified Rite; these are all phrases foreign to me. Even the term “Rose Croix” is used, but never in a sentence with “Scottish Rite”.

There was even gear and regalia for the Knights of Malta. It should be mentioned that anything displayed in the Museum and currently being worked in British or Scottish Masonry was invariably for sale at one of the shops across the street. Want to spend $2000 on an apron? You can do it, if your bank account permits.

Finally, it was time to leave. I hope it wasn’t a last good bye. This visit, like my visit to London, only served to stimulate a need for a return trip to Freemasons’ Hall, a visit all Freemasons should make.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Freemasons Hall, right up the street from the Freemason's Arms. Blind passage from Chinatown to my hotel, with a bit of slightly informed self direction, seemed to get me on the right street. When I saw the pub, I knew I was on the right track. And had to stop for a pint at an establishment with that name.

Next day we went back for the tour. Very impressive. The ceiling in the main lodgeroom is beyond description. Of course, one could argue that Iowa's Grand Lodge Library is just as impressive. To say nothing of a whole lot closer.